Find out what sensors you actually do have and I'll give you a heads up what to look for. If you have a Motronic ECU for ignition already, Google "Motronic 1.2 pinouts" and you might actually be able to run wires straight from that to sister pins on another (fuel) ecu. It is looking like you might already have all the signals you need from sensors already in place in your car......

i cant find any pinout diagrams... this thing is ancient :P

isin't the bell housing , near the gearbox?? or at least that is what i thought... the place i am speaking of, is way down, near the axis, that turns the wheels... there are two sensors there.
one is way to low, it has 2 pins, and i thing it is the VSS cause it is near the axis that turns the wheels.
the other one is a little bit higher. i think it bolts on the gearbox. it has 5 wire plug BUT it only uses 2 wires... it also is constant 12v, and goes low on reverse, so i thought, it was just for that...
btw , i still have no idea, why my distributor produces 1000pulses per minute at iddle :P

(p.s : even if we get all the sensors needed, i still would fill more good, if i used diy sensors, like the ones u posted, cause i would understand how they work better... )

btw the car works, without those two sensors as well...
the only sensor that stops the car from working, is the one, mounted on my distributor :/

Normally if the car is actually running, losing one of the sensors wont stop it because it has already learned where tdc is on no1. Its when you come to re-start that losing a position sensor of some sort becomes a real problem. Is that not the case? :?:

so, no other sensor of cam/crank located on the engine...
BUT. i was able to monitor the distributors signal, by manually turning the engine, by the camshaft....
turns out, that , the signal is constant 12v (or you can invert it. same results), AND goes LOW, 4 times, inside every camshaft rev..
so 4 pulses, equal cam rev, or 2 crank revs...

so... by that signal alone, i suppose i cant get EFI to work, becouse, i will know, that one cylinder is before TDC, BUT , i will not know, which one... correct????

Bear in mind your gearbox will have a reversing light switch on it so that may be one plug. You really do need to be able to idendify where the engine finishes and where the gearbox starts to stand any chance of sucess here.

If you can get a workshop (Haynes) manual for the car then you could look up the wire colours to any sensors fitted and identify what they connect to because if you want to use a fuel injection that was fitted by the vehicle manufacturer you will need sensors that give pretty much exactly the signal of original ones and hence it would be better by far to use them. Unlike after market kits there is no adjustment for expected voltages or for expected number of pulses par engine revolution.

I think a Haynes or similar manual will have pin numbers and connections for the ECU too.

Don't try and go in blind!

:thumbup:

you dont seem to get me :D. only the hardware parts of the injection will be taken from the other car. EVERYTHING else, will be done by me. i will map, all the sensors i can, and i will make new ones, where i cant (like the cam sensor). all will be driven by microcontrollers, written by me....
so yes, that sensor is the reverse sensor, i know that allot of time now :)
the car takes signal only from the distributor. it didint need to know, at which part of the cycle , the engine was. only that it is on SOME tdc. it would produce the spark, and the distributor , would distribute it.

that is why my distributor, wouldent be good enough...

my plan is this: i will make metal disk, with something like 35 holes (with one missing), like the ones you posted, and i will use it, as optical cam position sensor... the only thing left, is how do i determine , the "missing" teeth...
do i say something like :
if the duration of that 2 signals , is the double of the duration between the last two signals, then its a missing hole??? it seems to me, that this will have some problems, at cranking, since the rpm will rise rapidly, and maybe it would loose the "missing hole" ??

36 holes, one every 10 degrees but one of them wider than the rest would give 35 regular pulses and one longer pulse when viewed with an oscilloscope. An ECU would recognise the longer pulse as TDC on number 1 cylinder and with be able to calculate duration, engine speed etc from the other pulses.
Don't get me wrong, I wish you every sucess but surely the key to sucess with any good engineering solution is to use the most simple option that gets the job done and that would be by using ready made parts. If a version of your car exsist with fuel injection this could be a simple mechanical and wiring exercise and be reliable. What skills do you posess to achieve your goal? Also is your goal to fit fuel injection or really a project to try and make something yourself?

By the way, something like a modified Lumention system might be a way to produce pulses as described, Can you tell me what sensors for other parameters the engine requires to calclate fueling etc you plan to use and how you are going to interpret the signals to your home made ecu? It sounds like your plans are going above and beyond the sort of scope I could advise on, my only real concept of computer code programming is something like:-

10 PRINT "HELLO WORLD"
20 GOTO 10

:crazy:

yes. as i sed ( i think), i WANT to create an ECU from scratch. that is the project.
the fact that my car needs to be upgraded to injection, is just a side effect , for my cause to be done :D
i will use, whatever sensor i can, by the car i will take (like MAP(or MAF), engine temp, TPS, lambda(i will use aftermarket lambda . not the old O2), and i will use any aditional sensor, not provided, or hard to understand...

and i will write the code, running on the microcontroller(s), from "scratch" as well, since, i couldent find any code alerdy written for arduino microcontrollers... so yes, its going to be a large project,and that is why i am as much info i can, from the OEM/aftermarket ecu's ;)

by the way, you can consider my original post resolved.. :) i hadent thought of turning the engine manually... after io thought of that, the answer was pretty straightforward :)