Hi guys,

I had some credits for a tuning site so I thought I would send them my file for Stage 1 and EGR off.

Anyone want to comment on the work done?
I haven't had a chance yet to see the differences for myself, but I'm a complete novice anyway.
I have worked out and been advised though that the best way to turn off EGR on my ECU is to 0 two of the hysteresis maps, so I wonder if they did it this way.

Car is a 2006 Audi A6 3.0TDi BMK engine (225hp/165kW) auto transmission EDC16CP34 ECU.

Whether the work is good or bad I'm not going to post who the site was who did the work as I don't think that's fair on them.

Thanks

bad file....full torque on low revs...lambda allowing 14.5 AFR....Nm2IQ decalibrated by precentage....SOI % tuning...boost also....rail also....all EGT limiters disabled...durations decalibrated.....n75 stock...

jurebv wrote:bad file....full torque on low revs...lambda allowing 14.5 AFR....Nm2IQ decalibrated by precentage....SOI % tuning...boost also....rail also....all EGT limiters disabled...durations decalibrated.....n75 stock...

:lol: Glad I didn't have to pay for it then! Crazy that these guys are in business. Did they at least turn the EGR off properly?

Well better post who did this ! Other people will pay for this thinking it is good, because they don‘t know the difference !

Do you have ori and mod file attached ? I can check hysteresis maps for you tomorrow.

Omar wrote:Well better post who did this ! Other people will pay for this thinking it is good, because they don‘t know the difference !

Do you have ori and mod file attached ? I can check hysteresis maps for you tomorrow.

Yes, both are attached. I would appreciate you checking how they turned off EGR. All we really want right now is EGR off, via the correct hysteresis method. We don't want Stage 1 because we don't want to risk the transmission.

Let's just say that the company who did the work offered free credits to all members of another major car electronics forum in July 2016.

Thanks

Hey , sorry i was in trouble the last time, i havent even look on your bad tune file, just made AGR OFF on your ORI File by setting the Hysteresis maps to zero , checksum is also fixed by Winols so should be ready to flash, if there comes still an error i will also delete the dtc for you, but AGR is CLOSED 100% now with this file by hysteresis maps !


Hope it's not too late :)

regards,
Omar

Omar wrote:Hey , sorry i was in trouble the last time, i havent even look on your bad tune file, just made AGR OFF on your ORI File by setting the Hysteresis maps to zero , checksum is also fixed by Winols so should be ready to flash, if there comes still an error i will also delete the dtc for you, but AGR is CLOSED 100% now with this file by hysteresis maps !


Hope it's not too late :)

regards,
Omar

Omar, thanks for your response.
I haven't uploaded any map to the vehicle yet. I'm a bit tentative on doing it with a Vag Can Pro as not many people seem to have used that device for this purpose. I used it to read the file all ok, just a bit apprehensive on using it for flashing.

I am keen to see your changes though! I was struggling to find the hysteresis maps by myself, being a novice.

Kind Regards

For obd2 i suggest galleto for this ecu (edc16cp34)

jurebv wrote:For obd2 i suggest galleto for this ecu (edc16cp34)

I may have access to a Ktag and Kess. Would this be suitable?
Would it be worth my while to take a full eprom backup with the Ktag prior to flashing?

Made plenty of them with kess, no hassle :thumbup:

Of course BDM/Ktag full backup its a best idea before flash.