Hi guys,

I have two ECUs that I want to read. I've just started with tuning. I've done a few cars and decided to do my van. However my kess-v2 and k-tag would not read the van over OBD or on bench.
Can anyone please tell me how to read these ECUs on bench? I am willing to buy a tool if mine are not compatible. I have two ECUs from trucks like mine that I got from a friend and would like to read those before disassembling my truck.
The ECUs are Visteon DPC-806 and DPC-635.




Any help reading those would be greatly appreciated.

Hi mate. Ktag doesnt let you read this via drop pins?

BBTuning wrote:Hi mate. Ktag doesnt let you read this via drop pins?

Unfortunately no. There is no such ECU model to select. When I got my Ktag I also bought all the adapters available.
If there is an option to read it through one of those by selecting a different type of ECU that would be great.

d.dimitrov wrote:

BBTuning wrote:Hi mate. Ktag doesnt let you read this via drop pins?

Unfortunately no. There is no such ECU model to select. When I got my Ktag I also bought all the adapters available.
If there is an option to read it through one of those by selecting a different type of ECU that would be great.

Unsolder the 44 pin Flash and read with a TL866 programmer, 10 minute job ;)

wbr

I was hoping to do it without unsoldering anything. I've got no experience with a soldering iron but I guess since I have two practice ECUs I can give it a try :). I've ordered a TL866II programmer. It should be here in the next 10 days. Once I try it out I'll share the results.

Thanks for the advice.

d.dimitrov wrote:I was hoping to do it without unsoldering anything. I've got no experience with a soldering iron but I guess since I have two practice ECUs I can give it a try :). I've ordered a TL866II programmer. It should be here in the next 10 days. Once I try it out I'll share the results.

Thanks for the advice.

Impossible with soldering iron, you'd need a Hot-Air station set at 380 deg to unsolder the flash
Also you'll need the flash adapter for the TL866

wbr

Thanks for the advice!
I ordered the whole kit with 54 different connectors and this one is one of them.
I did watch some videos on how to remove the chip and saw that it was with hot air. It looks pretty easy.
However putting it back on the board is gonna be the challenge and from what I've seen most people do use a soldering iron.
I did see one that just placed the chip in the correct place and then used the hot air but it seems like a good way to get a lot of "dry joints" or however they are called.
I am even thinking about adding a socket like one bloke I saw for easier access later on.

d.dimitrov wrote:Thanks for the advice!
I ordered the whole kit with 54 different connectors and this one is one of them.
I did watch some videos on how to remove the chip and saw that it was with hot air. It looks pretty easy.
However putting it back on the board is gonna be the challenge and from what I've seen most people do use a soldering iron.
I did see one that just placed the chip in the correct place and then used the hot air but it seems like a good way to get a lot of "dry joints" or however they are called.
I am even thinking about adding a socket like one bloke I saw for easier access later on.

Adding a socket is a really good idea.
Avoid using anything other than a Hot-Air station tho, these chips have 44 legs and you can't heat all at once with an iron.
You'll also need to remove the lacquer off the chip legs and use liquid flux on the legs only.
Also use the widest Hot-Air nozzle, or remove all nozzle's, for best results.

wbr

Man you're the best!

I ordered a "GORDAK 952V" and will try to use only the hot air.
And do you have any suggestions or removing the "lacquer". So far I found three ways of doing it:
1. Just try and scrape it off (seems a bit dangerous, might damage the board)
2. Use a solvent (lacquer thinner/paint remover)
3. Use the hot air to soften it and than scrape it off.
Which of those would be less likely to damage the board?

d.dimitrov wrote:Man you're the best!

I ordered a "GORDAK 952V" and will try to use only the hot air.
And do you have any suggestions or removing the "lacquer". So far I found three ways of doing it:
1. Just try and scrape it off (seems a bit dangerous, might damage the board)
2. Use a solvent (lacquer thinner/paint remover)
3. Use the hot air to soften it and than scrape it off.
Which of those would be less likely to damage the board?

Solvents clog the pins and make reading a problem later.
Hot air makes the lacquer go all sticky and again clog the pins.
Sharp knife and scrape it off the pins, trust me this is the safest way.
Then use the smallest amount of liquid flux on the pins then use the Hot-Air.
Then clean the chip with white spirits, check between the pins too.

wbr