Yea i also found it via google ^^

Here for some who also needs this info:

Start VDCs

- Go into Stg 01 - Motorelectronic
- Function 10
- Channelnumber 00 and read
- Now there should be some info that you must press save to delete the learning data
- Thats it!

Long time no tune ;)

Had a lot of other things to do, but now I'm back with a vengeance - running the 10th revision of my own tune and slowly getting where I want to.

Things that have happened in the meantime -
installed boost gauge (finally! good thing too - boost spikes > 2 bar over ambient @ 1,45 in the map - hello turbo killer)
ordered Zeitronix Zt-2 wideband AFR/logging tool (EGT, boost, oil temp/pressure too)
installed 12mm plunger piston - in a "new" pump, old one was notoriously unreliable

So during the winter, the car was running well and almost smoke-free, but when it got warmer - obviously things changed. So when it became close to undrivable due to smoke and low-IQ/idle vibrations I went to work on the tune (still running someone else's maps at that time) and finally implemented all the changes already outlined above in the thread and some more.

Map changes:
Diagnostic extension for boost (to 3060 mBar) and IQ (to 75mg/stroke)
Changed IQ limits from 51 to 75mg/stroke
totally new pump voltage map scaled from 51 to 75mg/stroke max - still nowhere near perfect, will get better with the wideband AFR, but way improved and now showing plausible values for fuel consumption
drivers wish/torque limiter/smoke limiter adjusted and scaled to 75mg/stroke max
all fuel-based maps scaled to match the change from 51->75 mg/stroke
N75 map adjusted from torque max to rpm max - vanes more open for higher IQ and lower boost spikes (1,65 bar max now and falling to 1,45 quickly, still needs more tuning)

Haven't touched SOI yet, though that's still on the do to list.

Results so far are promising, >51mg/stroke is being injected, the pump voltage tells me - and I can feel the power is still there ;)

Minus the loads of smoke and huge boost spikes, plus a smoother torque curve.

Thanks ecuedit!

Regards

A week and 5 more versions later, the car is running near-optimal for the first time in seemingly forever.

Since creating a really well-working N75/requested boost map is a lot of work, I took the shortcut of using the 150HP ARL maps and modifying them slightly to suit my purposes - this has worked a lot better than me trying to fiddle with single areas in the original map.

No matter at what RPM I punch it, the hugest overboost is about 0,2 in 5th gear accelerating from all the way down (1400-1500/min), otherwise it's 0,1-0,12 above. N75 log values follow the N75 precontrol map pretty closely, too - I'm liking it a lot. Thanks for doing my work, VAG ;)

I've since modified my torque limiter to be slightly below my smoke limiter, was too high up til now to find out what air mass I could generate smoke-free. It's running very smoothly, now low-rpm shudder anymore, no "loud" areas at 1600-1800/min where it would vibrate, but the torque kick is gone - that came before when the turbo spooled up after a bit of lag, now it has no lag ;) So it "sort of feels less aggressive even though it isn't.

A list of what has been changed:


You can obviously use this list to grab my map addresses ;) This is for the manual coding, which is at lower addresses than the automatic one in the file - all maps in the other coding are with identical addresses for the last 4 digits, just add 2 to the first one so 5AAAA becomes 7AAAA etc.

A few notes:
I have two pump voltage maps, the default sized one and a modified longer one that I created manually. Just use the default if you're not sure what you're doing.
There is one smoke limiter and 2 "copies" which aren't actually copies but unpopulated maps for running MAP-based smoke limiter.
"Luftmassenlimiter" is a map that determines how much air mass you can use in the smoke limiter max...think about it ;) (also needs diagnostic changes to fully use it, though!)
"Ladedruck range limiter" is the same thing for boost, and I think it's used when running MAP-based smoke limiter (not 100% sure)
"Glühstifte für Kühlwasser Ansteuerung" is a map that determines when the water heater glow plugs (not the one for diesel!) should run - nicely usable to get up to 90°more quickly, along with dynamic idle.

Have fun ;)

Regards

Hi,

in the meantime, I've researched about what I wrote above some more - the assumption that these maps limit what you can use in the smoke limiter (MAF and MAP based!) is correct.

The real names for these maps are:

BEG Rauchbegrenzung korr. Luftmasse = f(M_L,T)
BEG Rauchbegrenzung korr. Saugrohrdruck = f(P,T)

You can find them in the Audi A4 VP37 damos.

The maximum value you can use (not display via diagnostic!) in your smoke limiter map is defined by those two maps, depending on whether you're running MAF-based (Luftmasse, "Luftmassenlimiter") or MAP-based (Saugrohrdruck, "Ladedruck range limiter").

You'll need to adjust diagnostic factors if you want to go over your stock limit, as well. You can find them in the map image above ;)

I've been playing with my smoke limiter and N75 maps a little more to squeeze out what I can smoke-free - now I'm reasonably sure I'm pretty close to the figures quoted by EDC15P Suite (it has a virtual dyno) - but still need to do a run at some point.

Right now, ~400Nm @ 2500 and ~185 horses @ 4000, all with a smooth curve, but still fighting some small overboost issues. Should be fixable as soon as I finally get my 3 bar MAP sensor installed and the new intercooler. The ECU isn't seeing the overboost, so it isn't reacting as hard as it should and limp mode is impossible at this boost level with the 2,6 bar sensor (not my preferred thing).

So still some things to do, but this is about as far as I want to take it before I get a better downpipe and the bigger MAP sensor and intercooler. The turbo can do way more, but not without control, lower intake and EGT temps and less back pressure from the exhaust system.

Regards

Hi,

in the meantime, my engine suffered a serious failure.

From the looks of it, it's pretty definite what happened - an injector or nozzle failure on cylinder one, with disastrous consequences. At least it didn't happen at high load, or it might have lifted/blown the head...was doing 115 mp/h on cruise control on the german Autobahn at 0,5-0,7 bar boost and not much IQ when it started slowing and smoking. No signs at all before that, all temps and readings were perfectly normal (had been logging).







Since I drastically reduced injection times/pump voltage from what the tuner who originally remapped it had set up, and also since all the other pistons and cylinders are perfectly fine (all still have the crosswise hone-markings from when they were made), this was not a software problem, but definitely a hardware one. Either the nozzle started dripping or something in the injector broke and caused it to do that. I'm pretty sure the nozzle itself was fine - it worked for 20k km, and Bosios are not known for poor quality - either it sustained some mechanical damage or the injector assembly is faulty IMO.

In any case, right now I'm deciding whether to rebuild it or get rid of it - a pity, after all the work that went into the car and the remap :)

If anyone inside the EU (for shipping reasons) has a whole 1.9 TDI engine (PD or VEP, PD including injectors) in good condition for a sensible price, let me know. Don't need turbo or other stuff on the engine, do need PD injectors if it's a PD.

Either that, or I'll need new pistons - not going to replace just the one, but instead switch to PD pistons with the added oil channel and fitting trapezoid con rods from the smaller PDs, since those fit my crankshaft as well as the PD pistons. Also going to replace all oil seals, bearings, gaskets, piston rings, ...

Also going to need .232 nozzles, Bosio preferred. Since I was running .216s with a 12mm pump, I was going to switch to 232s anyway - but they hadn't been in stock...bah.

Regards

Hi,

I've gotten a reasonable offer for the rework job and decided to go ahead with it, no matter whether I keep the car til it rusts away or sell it later on.

What will get done -

full set of new ARL pistons including all rings and new oil jets to be able to use them (Mahle or Nüral)
full set of used PD trapezoid con rods (the only used parts, but if straight and replacing the bearings anyway, are equivalent) with upgraded bearings from the RS2, better surface treatment/harder
used cylinder head planed and reworked, all parts needing replacing replaced with new ones, valves/seats reground
used cylinder block honed
improved head gasket with 12.9 head bolts
12.9 crankshaft main bearing bolts
all bearings, gaskets and seals replaced with new ones
full set of new .232 Bosio nozzles
new oil pump
new hydros (or whatever the things that push the valves and are actuated by the cam shaft are called in English)
new oil + new filters (obviously)

This will return the engine to as-new condition and includes more than a full rework usually does. All relevant parts will have been replaced or upgraded - and the engine should run for a long time without trouble.

In any case, it won't be cheap, but it's recoverable by selling the car or using it for a long time to come easily.

Total cost will run slightly over 2k Euros, 3-5k sale price is doable in the used market, 3+ for questionable condition or when trading in, 5 for good.

...and it'll hit 200k kilometers, after all :D

Regards

i have the same spec as you had im learning alot from your map thanks

The torque kick you miss is a good thing, when calculating the compressor map, even the stock tune requests too much boost down low!

Hi could you tell me how to calculate SOI im new in VE37 tunning
iv'e changed the nozzles for 0.216 waiting for pump piston 11mm and i have stock turbo VNT15 and want to have around 130HP
My engine is AFN 110KM/230NM
I was wonder if something around 55mg/strk will be okey for that power ?

Hellow friends, I want to ask how i calibrate pump voltage map with this set 10mm punger and 0.232 inj nozzles. I read a lot of comment in this discussion. I know for this nozzles must have 11mm or 12mm plunger but i have 10 mm. And i want to know how calibrate pump voltage. I copy map from T4 VW 2.5.